Schools Of Guatemala

Not all schools are created equal... but too many look like this...

Travels Through Central America

Photos from Honduras, El Salvador and Nicaragua:
http://www.alexandertolchinsky.com/main/?page_id=768

Skies of Nicaragua

Map of my travels through Nicaragua

Map of Nicaragua: http://www.alexandertolchinsky.com/main/?page_id=761

For other maps from my journeys, check out: http://www.alexandertolchinsky.com/main/?page_id=25

Celebrating 2 Years and 40,075km on the Road!!

Pacific sunset from San Juan Del Sur, Nicaragua

...and 40,075km = circumference of the earth!!

Ometepe, Nicaragua

The ever concealed peak of Vulcan Concepcion on the world largest fresh water volcanic Island.

The (Less Glorious) Realities of Motorcycle Travel

What people think:

“This is so amazing, I wish I could drop everything and travel the world, you are so lucky, I am soo jealous. I wish I could be as free as you.”

“You are so brave to do this. You are doing what millions wish they could do.”

”You get to see incredible places, and meet all kinds of different people, and you don’t have to lead a mundane life and go to a stupid job you hate. “

“You are doing this on a motorcycle? That is so cool!...”

Though I am lucky and I do get to experience and see and eat what others never will, there is a whole other side to my reality which people do not realize, and which, I am guessing, would make them slightly less jealous of me…

What it actually is:

My face is burned from the sun and in constant pain from rocks and bugs of various sizes and densities hitting it at 70mph.

My hands vibrate for hours after dismounting from my single cylinder’s attempt to satiate my desire for ever greater velocity around mountain bends.

I am either hot and sweaty or freezing cold most of the time; rare is the day when I comfortably ride in the clothes I have on. And once wet and cold only a hot shower can restore my body – and that is not always so easy to find.

I am never relaxed as absolutely everything, from rocks, sand, weather, the road, cars and trucks to stray dogs, birds, and other wild animals… and even the very tires that are supposed to keep me upright, is constantly threatening my life.

Every border crossing or checkpoint leaves me a little breathless and wondering how much money it will take for me to continue (though thankfully so far I have only had to pay 2 bribes).

My lips are burned and chapped and I’m in a general state of dehydration because often there is just not a good place to pull over and drink.

My head hurts from the constant squeezing of a helmet.

My back, neck and shoulders are in constant pain from not being able to move to a comfortable sitting position, again, for hours on end.

My eyes are dry from the wind finding its way around glasses and goggles, no matter how tightly they are wrapped around my head.

I have hemorrhoids the size of fists from sitting for endless hours on a hard, viciously vibrating leather seat.

I go for days without showering or changing shirt and underwear – the resulting funk is enough to distract me from the keeping my bike on two wheels.

I sleep in questionable places, under questionable conditions – usually uncomfortably, which results in few hours of sleep per night and a perpetual state of exhaustion, magnified by the after-effects of a constant rush of adrenaline from being on a motorcycle.

There is rarely a ready reprieve from the dirt, wind, rain, mud, salt, loneliness, danger or discomfort. It comes and goes, but almost never when I need it most.

The water and food are always changing, never giving my stomach a rest or time to catch up and get used to the place’s particular family of bacteria and parasites. The effects need not be mentioned.

But lets mention them anyway: in three months (out of 2 years now) I took more antibiotics than in the last 16 years. I’ve had throat, lung and stomach infections, which have left me writhing in pain for days.

Best of all: I’ve had dengue. Though I am alive today, there were a few days where I was not so sure…

I got tendinitis in my hand which forced me to get an injection of anti-inflammatory meds. The pain is not something I can accurately describe – but I did consider chopping off my hand just to stop it.

As a writer I am beset by the constant flux of incredible events from which I must separate myself in order to write about them – hence the paradox.

The bike is such an incredible drain on my resources I may as well have stayed in New York with a girlfriend.

There is a loneliness which is omnipresent - no matter with how many people I find myself, nor how wonderful they may be, all relationships on the road are ephemeral, and hence are dissatisfying to some degree from beginning to end.

Then again…

These are just a few of the difficulties I face, almost on a daily basis. After 10 years and 100,000 miles you get used to a lot of it; the hard part is not having a break from it. But in the end it is this shared struggle with other bikers from around the world which brings so much meaning, and so much joy, to every wave we share as we pass each other on the long road. It is this struggle which binds us as an international, inclusive community of incredibly diverse people. And of course what I see in months, 99% of people won’t see in 9 lifetimes. And the people I meet are so wonderful that my faith in humanity is renewed on a daily basis. So I say it’s worth it, but then again I’m a little insane.

Simple things I have come to miss while traveling

It’s been 2 years now since I left my small, yet comfortable, apartment in Brooklyn. And though I’m glad to have simplified my life to a single duffel  bag, and a Timbuktu for my computer, there are certain, simple, comforts I miss about having a home.

1.       A toilet seat: I don’t want to go into too many details, but let me assure you – this is one thing you only think about when you don’t have it. Running water to make it flush is also a bonus.

2.       A soft towel: I don’t care how fancy and advanced travel towels are, nothing beats, or dries better than, a soft cotton towel you can wrap yourself in after drying off

3.       A hot shower: to be fair, it is usually so freaking hot that you can’t even think of getting into a hot shower, but in the mountains, or on cold days, or when you want a shave, its absence is sorely felt

4.       A bed: I would say I have slept in a bed more often than not in the last two years. Though I do have a great deal of experience with floors, hammocks, couches of various sizes, inflatable mattresses, and tents. The beds are often worse than the floor, with springs poking me in the ribs, or the middle entirely collapsed, or smelling of questionable previous guests. All in all I have spent less than 3 weeks out of the last 2 years not missing my Tempurpedic.

5.       A good knife in the kitchen: nothing drives me more crazy than not having a good knife. Cutting surfaces can be improvised, as can the use for various pots and pans, even plates and cups are overrated, but nothing can replace a good knife. Even in some of the better homes I have stayed, the knives, for some reason have been horrible- making the cooking process longer and more tedious than you want it to be, especially when everything else is pretty tedious already.

Some other things I wish I had: freshly ground pepper, a good olive oil, a Turkish coffee pot or French press, a lack of insects (and screens on windows), a good fan, a properly proportioned table and chair combo for writing. But these are luxuries, I know.

To be sure, I’m not complaining… well, maybe a little, I just wanted to take a moment and remind you of the simple things you have, which you may take for granted, but which are not a given in other parts of the world.

Trinity Alps, California - Beautiful and Deadly

This picture was taken just before we started climbing for our lives - literally. A nice almost last thing to see, wouldn't you agree?


www.alexandertolchinsky.com

The Many Lakes of Nicaragua

This one is of below average beauty, if you can imagine that! 

The Many, Active, Faces of Nicaraguas Volcanoes

Volcano Boarding in Nicaragua!

Amazing views atop of an extremely active volcano which is set to erupt very soon... at least we has a quick way of getting down!

Rescuing Sea Turtles in Oaxaca

At about 4a.m. I helped more than 50 sea turtles find their way to the ocean.
This one I saved from a dog's mouth.

One of the sweetest moments in my last 2 years of travel.


www.alexandertolchinsky.com 

A Poem from the Road: Rain

Sometimes my travels give me the gift of someone who inspires me:

Rain

When clouds sit low upon the land,
When earth and sky are wet with rain,
The titter tatter on the roof,
The pitter patter on the pane.

I like it cold and wet beyond
For all the reason more
That after whetted by days of sun
I’ve covered hours to look ‘fore.

When all is dark and bleak outside
And all is warm and bright within,
I thank the rain for time upon
Your breast to lay my weary chin.

By city, sea or mountain pass
I like to lay my head beside,
On floor of straw or fine mattress,
And fly with you – our dreams untied.

With you my dreams forever soar
And neither place I wish to leave,
For hard or soft, on bed or floor,
I find my bliss and wish to keep.

What easy joy the rain does bring
To those already swelled with love
To steam away the wet we keep
The fire burning in our heart.

Forced Child Labor in Mexico

She sits for hours, well into the night, carving beautiful animals from palm leaves... no one knows who or where her mother or father are...

Orizaba, Mexico

www.alexandertolchinsky.com

An Explosion of Art in Morelia, Mexico

A new story on my site about my time in magical Morelia!

http://www.alexandertolchinsky.com/main/?p=672

Oregon Riding

The sun running interference with my riding - how could I possibly continue without stopping to gaze? No matter the miles, or times that I’ve seen it, a sunset will always arrest and amaze.

-Oregon, USA

www.alexandertolchinsky.com

People vs. Cargo

A fine line in Central America

Fun on Caribbean Beaches...

is not limited to swimming and sunning:

Most Dangerous Countries

3 weeks in 2 of the worlds most dangerous countries - have been some of the most peaceful so far on my journey.
Here is a view of Nicaragua, Honduras and El Salvador